our beautiful day started off with Asayama-san’s last surf session before getting a flight back to Japan. it’s been a wonderful 2 weeks with this amazing man.
we paddled out to Rockpiles and enjoyed some local time. Les Tamashiro flowing over the shallow reef.
one of the coolest locals i know. just so clam, so happy, and loves surfing every single day of his life.
another happy local girl is Dianne. ripping like usual…
the waves were super good as you can see. probably the best spot on the South Shore today. overhead for local surfer girl Erin.
3 years ago, i would never think about taking Asayama-san out to Rockpiles. too shallow and too hollow. but after surfing Pipeline, Backdoor, Haleiwa, and huge Bowls, everything is so easy now. thank you Asayama-san for the amazing 2 weeks of surfing, playing, cruising, tripping, and laughing. you did great!
remember that Omilu i speared on Molokai? well, i ate it all only one way. the right way for this occasion.
poured some black truffle olive oil all over and you wouldn’t believe how good it was! this little bottle is going with me on my next dive trip. just the aroma makes me think about the good times…
went to eat some mentaiko pasta for dinner last night. you will never guess where this is…
went to meet one of the best foilers in the state of Hawaii. Leleo Kinimaka is the man. he distributes the GoFoil system in Hawaii and if you seen him ride one, you would want to buy one too. Leleo let me borrow a board to teach Toda-san on. so from here, we headed to Bowls.
right as i got into the water, my fricken gopro broke! shit, again! so i couldn’t get Toda-san’s first wave on the foil. you should have seen his face. it was like he took off on a 10′ set at Sunset. but the wave was only waist high. haha. going again tomorrow so hopefully will get the shot.
it was Asayama-san’s dream to surf with Kelia Moniz. and that dream came true on this trip. and yeah, i got this happy photo to prove it. so lovely!!!
