yesterday’s afternoon session was amazing. foiling beautiful Diamond Head and loving my freedom.
then watched the WQS in South Africa last night. good to see Seth Moniz winning his heat pretty easily. so stoked!
he beat the defending Balito contest champion Jordy Smith. Seth is ranked #11 on the WQS currently so things looking pretty good for this kid. contest will continue tonight.
foiling Boot Camp with some friends this morning. as much as they are so scared, so am i. i know the dangers, i got hurt, i see people getting hurt, and the last thing i want to see is my friends getting hurt. so Sargent Kirby is stricter than ever when it comes to the razor sharp foil. there is no room for mistakes.
as for me, my goal on the foil is to catch a 10′ wave and pull into the barrel. what ever happens in the barrel i don’t care. i just want to feel the adrenaline rush of my life. so now, this new South swell is going to be good practice for me.
like all us foilers, there will be some bad sessions. you will feel so low, so sad, and so frustrated. this is the breaking point where some people quit, and some people continue. Toda-san looked like how i use to look, how Carter use to look, how Tony use to look, and how everybody i know that foils use to look. but the strong never give up and when you get over the low point, it only gets high. ganbatte Toda-san!
we try again this afternoon at Bowls. then Toda-san gets his best 2 rides of his foiling life. i was so stoked to see him figuring it out.
with the good rides, comes the bad ones. haha. Toda-san told me he’s never wiped out this much in his life. i remember seeing Tony Moniz on some pretty bad wipeouts too. he told me “this is the most humbling thing i’ve ever done.” i agree… we will all wipeout, but we will all get back up and keep on trying. never say never!
