Lucky Me

279

thank you Dr. Sato-san for the special limited edition Virgin Olive Oil from Japan! i can’t believe there’s a serial number on it! going to make some carpaccio next time i spear a fish!

i was watching this Japanese girl locking up her bicycle. it took her about 15 minutes from start to finish. first, she had to take off her surfboard racks so nobody steals it.

then she has to lock up her seat to the bicycle frame so nobody steals her seat. then also has to lock the back tire to the frame so nobody steals the back tire.

then she had to lock her surfboard racks up too. then her front tire to the pole too. it seems like a hassle, but once you get in the water and ride your first wave, i guess it’s all worth the time!

i still can’t believe the last time we swam with the dolphins. the footage came out amazing and i can look at this photo over and over. maybe i’ll print it out and put it on my wall.

and look at this baby Monk Seal looking right at me. it’s not too many times you will experience this so close up. lucky me!

**the morning after i almost got run over by a speeding car in the crosswalk, i realized 2 things. first, i realized how so many pedestrians in Hawaii get killed in crosswalks. i thought it could never happen to me and it almost did. second, i realized how precious life it. i told my friend that i seriously thought i was dead. so now i’m going to enjoy my life to the fullest. she laughed at me and said “you already are.” but now, i’m going to enjoy it even more. i guess that’s what happens when you feel like you have another chance at life. mine as well make the best of it.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide