i own 4 foil surfboards and after riding the first 3, i sat down, thought about it, and came up with the ultimate magic board. i feel like i can fly even higher and faster now.
and my pilot friend Donald is loving the foil life. even when he’s driving hundreds of passengers from country to country, all he’s thinking about is foiling.
we pulled up to Three’s yesterday evening and had the magical session. Carter with the full round house cutback.
surfing brings out the biggest smiles. foiling brings out even bigger smiles. i haven’t seen Toda-san this happy since i met him over 25 years ago.
and i knew the day would come when he will be flying high too. i just didn’t think it would be this soon.
Maki-san on a nice set at Three’s. so stoked!
this is my Brazilian friend Luiz. he’s the one that rents out cars to all the Japanese pro surfers that come to Hawaii. super cool guy with super cool service.
after the Flotilla party yesterday, some party people were getting blown by the wind all the way across the sea. lifeguards ended up assisting over 400 drunk people. this guy tried to come in by himself because he was too embarrassed to get rescued. hey dude, the ocean eats up egotistic people.
this guy too was trying hard to come in. this is a classic example of mixing alcohol and ocean. not the best mix.
after we surfed, we paddled back to Mayuki, got out the poke, opened some cold beers, and had the coolest sunset party.
then when the first fireworks blew, it was pure happiness.
yes, we had the best seats on the whole island.
this morning surfing with Ushijima-san was super fun. lots of smiles, and lots of shakas.
a hot bowl of meat pho for lunch to end our awesome session.
i eat pho about 3x a week and love every serving of it.
