wow, i just got back from diamond head. left at 7am and back in my house at 8:15am. pulled up to cliffs and seen this… 3′ epic perfect no wind surf….
took a peek around the corner and lighthouse was the spot. if i were to rate lighthouse on a scale of 1 to 10. today was 9.95. paddled out with carissa moore, caught 5 epic waves, and i was done… now i have the whole day ahead of me…. see ya…