this morning was even bigger than yesterday. so Boot Camp day 2 was way more challenging. i kept on telling Michi-san, “the bigger and scarier the waves are, the more relaxed you have to be. if you want me to baby you, i’ll push you in the inside small waves where everybody does their surf schools. but if you want to have a real surfing experience, i’ll take you to the outside and ride mountains.” of course Michi-san chose the mountains…
when the nerves went away, her surfing shined so bright…
then off to Sprout for a healthy and happy lunch. so good to see Michi-san’s Mother every year. what a beautiful smile…
i ordered the Fonz sandwich which has pastrami inside. super good!
then went to Pipeline Cafe for some tasty malasadas.
seen this young lady with 4 of her kids there. she and the kids were all talking Hawaiian to each other. i had chicken skin listening to that. it was so amazing….
then went to pick up the Aichi girls this afternoon for their very first surf session. Suzumura-san was pretty nervous in the beginning, but she stood up on her first wave which was impressive.
Takahashi-san was much calmer and looked like she surfed before. surprising that it was both their first times.
this is how you can tell if someone is stoked on surfing. just look at the end of the ride! you can’t just make this up. this is real, this is surfing…
i remember when i was 6 years old and rode my very first wave. the end of my ride was something like this. and guess what? i still do this to this day…
came home and opened up a goodie bag from Nakahodo-san. omg! filled with treats!!!
going to cook some rice now. put over this uni, and eat it with nori. my mouth is watering already… thank you Nakahodo-san!
