when people ask me what age can they surf until, i use to say “um.. maybe 70 years old?” but after meeting Fujii-san, that has all changed. at 77 years old, this amazing surfer is good! he just moved the scale way up!
Fujii-san was loving the laugh after each long ride. super good improvements in the past 3 days of Boot Camp. this man has given me so much power to surf forever!
nice long last ride with Diamond Head in the back. it was so beautiful to watch this precious moment.
thank you Fujii-san! please tell everybody at Sakura Surf School in Higashihama that i said hello! you guys have a great surf club with some cool surfers. it’s a pleasure to meeting you and can’t wait to surf with you again…
it seems like months that i haven’t foiled because i’ve been so busy. i missed it so much that i couldn’t turn down an invitation from Micah even though i was so tired. we paddled out to Diamond Head in the evening and had the time of our lives…
Micah is foiling so good! i love to watch him ride wave into wave into wave. it’s crazy how a big guy like him can glide so gracefully over the ocean.
i had the best waves of my life, and i had the craziest wipeouts of my life. my last wave took me to the sandy beach so i was done…
Tony Moniz on one to the beach too. i’d say he rode this one for almost 2 minutes.
we were laughing and having so much fun. the 4 of us were like little kids that just started surfing again. it was amazing.
then went back up and talked more. i’d have to say that our lives are pretty dam good now. just to spend time with family and friends in the ocean has always been a dream for me. can’t wait till this evening so we can do it all over again. see you boys…
