Shark Breath of Life…

257

i’ve been getting up early and watching Seth Moniz surf his heats in California. he’s into the 5th round now which is freaking amazing! he’s surfing against top surfers in the world and beating them! he needs to make a few more rounds and then his dream will come true. i’m so nervous i can’t even watch! Go-Seth!!!

after being so nervous this morning watching the contest, i drove out to the West side to check out this cave. it was beautiful as always…

dove down and went towards the back of the cave, then seen a silhouette and just stayed there watching the most beautiful shark swim by.

i stayed still and very calm as the shark came right next to me to check me out. i stayed in the cave for a while enjoying the most peaceful scene of nature.

this shark was very territorial because i dove into this cave 4 times and he was just going back and forth. it was his house and i was just a visitor…

diving into deep caves is a great way to overcome your fear. if you panic in there, you won’t make it out. so being relaxed is the key. i feel so relaxed that i can take a nap. it took me a while to get calm like this, but now i’m enjoying every breath of life. come dive with me…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide