i took Nao-san to study the ocean. i was on the top explaining things to her about currents, swells, entry, and calmness. they she wanted me to catch a couple waves so i went because i’ll never turn down an opportunity to surf this magical spot. a spot i use to surf in high school…
lots of people die here each year so it’s not the safest place to surf. i told Nao-san that surfing here is totally different than surfing Bowls. Bowls is like a swimming pool compared to this. you actually have to take off right on the edge of the rocks. there is no other way.
i caught a wave and rode it right pass Nao watching on the rocks. a very long and very wild one but it felt so dam good!
i caught 8 waves at perfect Bowls earlier in the day, but this one wave fulfilled me the most.
this is Nao-san’s angle as the got out her iPhone.
slippery rocks, poky sea urchins, big moray eels, heavy locals, and strong current. it’s not a place for everyone. thank you Nao-san for asking me to surf. just those 2 waves made my whole day…
and thank you for the gifts! so happy!
went to have a nice Chai Tea at Surfers Coffee. it was the best ever…
only at Wahiawa, Hawaii…
yes, it was more than a cup of coffee…
