we paddled out at 7am and the waves were super small. each minute, the sets were growing and growing. i haven’t seen the waves on the South shore grow that fast ever! in an hour, Bowls was closing out! it’s called a Typhoon in Japan, and a Hurricane in Hawaii. either way, we surfed a historical day!
Nao-san caught some sets from Bowls. while she was paddling out, the mountains kept rolling in and breaking on her head. my friends were saying “hey, you better go help her.” i said “no way, she can do it.” they said “no way she can come back out by herself.” i said “watch!” and guess what? Nao-san kept on coming back out. it was amazing!
we drove to Sandy Beach to watch the High Surf Advisory in action. the shorebreak was pounding!
passed by Diamond Head and couldn’t believe how big it was too! look how close intervals the waves were! this is typical Typhoon swells that we never see here in Hawaii. in fact, i don’t even know the last time this happened? maybe 30 years ago??
Seth texted me where they where surfing. so Nao-san and i paddled out to see the #1 WQS boy in raw action! it was Nao-san’s first time out here but no nervousness anymore.
while Seth and Josh were having barrel after barrel and air after air, Nao-san was having her own fun.
i couldn’t believe she caught 3 waves! the waves kept on coming and coming, and the ocean was like a washing machine. you could feel the ocean being so alive…
a historical day for this surfer girl. it’s her first Hurricane swell and she did wonderful! good job Nao-san! big step in your surfing career…
