today was freaking amazing! the waves came up again! super good South swell getting better and better. Nao-san feeling so comfortable at any size and conditions. just to see her put her head down and just go for it made me so happy.
good to surf all these spots and see one of my nephews out. the other day was Seth and Josh, today was Isaiah. all kids ripping!
Nao-san caught the best wave of her life this afternoon. she took off on a big set, turned right, and rode the powerful rollercoaster all the way to the end.
the rights at Bowls was as good as it gets. i got a couple barrels to prove it. so stoked!
Nao-san caught the wave of her life. i was watching her finish the ride and she put both hands in the air like she just won the Pipeline Masters. it was so cool!!!
i paddled behind her and she turns around with the biggest smile i’ve ever seen.
yes Nao-san, i saw it! good job girl!!!
hungry surfers need to reload on protein. so it was a thick piece of prime rib for lunch!
life simply, and eat simply….
then to my new favorite milk tea. it’s so far from my house but so good that i went there 3x in this past 5 days.
you won’t find a happier surfer in this world anywhere right now. why? because the happiest surfer in the world is right here!
