on the way out, Nao-san’s board hit her face before she even could catch a wave. lesson learned was never to have your board between an oncoming wave and yourself. wipe the blood off, get up, and try again.
perfect rides on perfect waves. the waves came down a little, but there were still some amazing ones!
look forward and look at the rainbow behind!!! so cool!
some of the waves this week were so big that i couldn’t see Nao-san’s head after she took off. i could only see the top of the buildings and sky. yes, it was that big!
more waves, more smiles.
i’m totally amazed on how confident and comfortable Nao-san got in these past 8 days of Boot Camp. she came here at the biggest swells of the year and left with so many experiences and memories. paddling out after this wave, she hit her face again on the surfboard. it’s crazy how you can survive unscratched on the biggest days, and get beaten up on the smallest. this is how the ocean works. the ocean is the Queen and we are just her servants. it’s all about respect!
super proud of you Nao-san. you’re down to a 6’4 shortboard and i’m sure you can even go shorter next trip. slowly but surely!
glad you liked the oxtail soup too.
the best bowls of soup on the island.
