had another amazing day. started off with the beautiful Jikou-san family.
13 year old Yuya-kun started off the session with the first wave of the day.
10 year old Shunsuke-kun went next.
this kid was so energetic! he kept on saying “so fun!”
stayed with the boys and made sure they were safe.
and Papa Jikou-san on the outside riding some nice waves.
the boys took turns. Yuya-kun with the Diamond Head backdrop.
Shunsuke-kun with the long ride.
spent some time on the outside surfing with Jikou-san. super cool guy from Wakayama.
and super good surfer too.
it’s been a while since he surfed so i’m sure this bottom turn must have felt good.
some hot pho for some cool surfers.
the last thing these 3 boys want to do is go shopping. so i took them to the most beautiful places on the island. first from on top of the world.
then you won’t believe what happened after. i took them to my super dangerous secret spot. the waves were big and it was the perfect day to turn the 2 boys into 2 men. this is another story in a story so i’ll have to come back to it later. but to make it short, the 2 young boys entered the unknown and became men today.
then back to town and surfed with Hattori-san into the sunset. i left my house at 7am and came home at 7pm. so many good memories today. i feel totally satisfied with my life right now that i only have one more word to say. “goodnight.”
