good evening. wow, what a great day of surfing! i paddled out to
queens this morning and the waves were really fun. surfed with my
nephews and it was cool watching them surf so good. i haven’t seen
waikiki that big in my life. the whole ocean was moving and the power
of the waves were amazing.
came in, ate lunch, and paddled out to big rights. if my 26 years of
surfing out there, this was the 2nd time i surfed it that big. about 15
years ago was the last time it got over 6′ solid and today was another
day in history. the waves were as big as it gets, the power of the
ocean was moving like it was mad, not too many surfers made it out so it
was uncrowded. i caught some big waves today on my little 6’0 board and
the speed couldn’t feel any better. i caught a lot of waves with a few
barrels and today has to be one of my best surf sessions ever on the
south shore of hawaii. 5 hours in the water, my eyes are burnt, my skin
is as dark as it gets, and guess what? the swell is still coming up.
tomorrow supposed to be the biggest day but i can’t see how it could be
any bigger than today. i’m going to ride a bigger board tomorrow and
try to catch the biggest waves. so stoked on surfing!
as for the photos? none. i’m a shitty photographer. when the surf is
good, i’m surfing, not shooting. surfing comes first! but i did video
a nice wave of ross williams out at big rights getting barreled.
tomorrow? we’ll just have to wake up and see. i’m surfing all day
again! have a great night!
