finally uploaded all the photos from this wonderful session with Sonosuke-kun. the cutest kid with the cutest smile!
when i found out he wanted to surf, i was so happy to be the one to share the moment. look at him getting ready on his very first wave. so cute!
and when he stood up, he was so stoked!
then Sonosuke-kun gets a hand shake from his proud Father. a priceless moment…
Father and youngest son sharing life, waves, and the moment.
good job Sonosuke-kun! thank you for the wonderful time i will never forget! see you next year!
went to buy water and guess what? no water. welcome to the panic land of America…
pretty much every shelf was empty at the supermarket so forget everything.
i checked Ala Moana this morning and it was chest high and clean. something i have no interest in knowing there are bigger waves right around the corner. pulled up to Diamond Head, then thought, “umm, i know a spot even bigger and better.”
so i drove around another corner and when i pulled up, i couldn’t believe it! super big Hurricane waves with just a couple surfers out. there were hundreds of spectators watching the crazy surfers riding these mountains…
so i grab my shortboard and jumped off the rocks. it was so funny because i could hear people saying “is that guy going to jump off the rock right there???” haha. anyway, i had the best Hurricane session i had in 25 years. rode some good waves that would never end. i actually caught my last one so far that i had to walk back a mile to my truck. so stoked!
