Fried Rice and Apples…

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i was driving home yesterday with the full on Hurricane warning. it was Friday evening and usually this street would be full of cars. i get a call from Chiyoko-san about our surf session today. she asked “is it ok?” i said “yeah, we just go for it!”

and luckily we went for it because the waves were super challenging. perfect for long rides and nice smiles…

look at her go!!! Chiyoko-san was wondering why nobody was out. maybe because of the hurricane?

look at me in the back riding a wave right behind. this is hurricane swells where the intervals are so close. cool!

a few more waves as we enjoyed our amazing morning session.

thank you Chiyoko-san for the wonderful session. and thank you so much for translating my blogs from English to Japanese! see you again in a few days for Boot Camp day 2…

went to eat Chinatown with the rest of the Tanaka-san family. the food was so good that i totally forgot to take a family photo. omg! shock!!!

then surfed with Tani-san this afternoon. i couldn’t believe the waves were 3x bigger than this morning. it was the hurricane back swell! lucky!

there are hurricanes hitting Japan right now too. Kimura-san sent me this photo of a super secret spot near his house. wish i could be 2 places at the same time…

Nao-san bumped into Mai-chan at the new Apple Store in Kobe. such a small world! hello girls!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide