i couldn’t believe the hurricane was still sending us swells yesterday evening. the waves started pumping in the afternoon and it wouldn’t stop.
Tani-san came to Hawaii at the perfect time. it’s his first time and i hope he doesn’t think it’s like this everyday. the last time we got this swell direction was decades ago.
i had a blast following Tani-san as he caught this beautiful wave at Bowls. super good surfer with lots of power.
the best view in the house. can’t wait for another day of surfing with him come Monday!
the waves were so perfect that all i had to do was push on my back foot and along came the speed. 70% back foot, 30% front foot is what i teach people. no, this is not JohnJohn, this is me. haha…
found these photos online about the rich divided by the poor. i had goosebumps because i actually flew over Cape Town in Africa and seen this exact same setup. rich on one side, and poor on the other…
and also seen this flying into Johannesburg Airport too. one side of the street, rich, and the other, poor. i have a feeling this is how American will be in 30 years. scary…
Shimizu shave ice! yeah!
Mateus slept over and forget his toothbrush so i taught him how to brush his teeth with his finger.
don’t use too much toothpaste boy…
yes, that’s perfect!
brush with your finger, and rinse after. and next time don’t forget your toothbrush!!!
