Turtle Tonkatsu…

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tokura-san and some of the dove workers and i went to lunch today. we headed to sagara and oh my gosh… it was closed. shock. so tokura-san had another backup tonkatsu spot and here it is. it’s somewhere in hiratsuka….

this was the daily special. turtle katsu…. just joking. but there was this huge fresh water turtle in a tank right next to where we ate. yikes…

tokura-san’s new toy. a 1982 VW golf, or what we call rabbit in hawaii. mint condition. i can’t wait till the day when tokura-san comes back with a vintage VW bug. then i’m going to borrow it, everyday… haha…
**anyway, i’m leaving tomorrow and was wondering what boards to put in my bag. i can only take 2 so i have to make the right choice. so i just checked out the Indonesia Swell Forecast and here’s what it said: We have another system that will kick back in around the 17th. So it’s looking real good with plenty of waves and locations on offer over the coming week. And even further out around the 20th-21st we could be in for the biggest swell of the year !

WOW, WOW, and WOW…. i think i’m going to score. imagine surfing big perfect flawless waves and spearing huge tunas with no other people around for miles and miles. no computer, no phone, no car, and no traffic. this is the best part of travel surfing. it’s just you and the ocean…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide