yesterday afternoon surf with the boys. Hatsugai-san surfing so solid.
pretty stoked too.
so lucky we got the best waves of the day.
Mikio-san surfing so solid too!
it was his first time so this smile says it all.
perfect rides!
thank you Tokyo Football boys for the wonderful time!
then had another surf with Tani-san this morning. small waves but if you know where to go, you will have fun!
i had an eye doctor appointment this afternoon. i know my body well so when i seen my eye 2 weeks ago all red, i knew i had to get surgery again. so i went to see my doctor.
first, he scolded me. he said “where were you all these years? you’re supposed to come to your appointment in 2012!” i told him “sorry Doctor, i’ve been so busy.” he laughed. he checked my eyes and yeah, i’m going to have to get surgery again, but not so soon. then after the put all kinds of medicine in my eyes, i could barely see. after i left, i called him back to see if i was allowed to go surf. he said “up to you because you’re probably going anyway.”
so i grabbed my foil and paddled out to Diamond Head half blind. it’s amazing how good i foiled this evening. i felt like i was a seagull just flying so freely over the ocean. it was more off feel and i had the session of my life…
