Akemi-san’s first wave yesterday! she surfed a few times before but only stood up on one wave. so getting up on her very first wave must have felt like magic!
if i could read her mind, she would be saying “I’m Loving it!”
and it was Chiyoko-san’s second time surfing with me. way more waves and way more smoother.
and if i could read her mind, she would be saying “I’m Loving it!”
thank you to the wonderful Tanaka-san family for being such happy and positive people! hope you enjoyed your Hawaiian vacation!!!
i better get back to our Sumatra trip before i forget what ever happened??? all i remember is glassy mornings with nobody but us around…
Matsu and i shared some epic sessions.
and we shared some epic waves too! this was the first day i took out my foil, and my last day. why? because i didn’t want to kill myself or any of my friends. i was still a beginner and i forgot that the nearest hospital is 8 hours away. and that’s if you can even call that a hospital. for any foilers that want information about foiling in Sumatra, here is my advise. Sumatran waves are very powerful and very shallow. don’t be a fool. leave your foil back home and surf it instead. i’m lucky i didn’t have to learn the hard way. and Matsu either. haha…
Kimura-san always with the classic t-shirts. “I’m Loving it.” but i’m pretty sure Ronald McDonald isn’t too happy about it…
