yesterday was a holiday so Bowls had a full house with only locals! the only Japanese guy was Shunsuke-kun and Hashimoto-san. i think between the both of them, they caught a combined wave count of 40 waves. lucky guys!
i paddle out to the lineup behind my friend Lance Hookano and sneak up on him. i change my tone of voice and say “no fucken lonboarders here brah.” he looks down, takes a deep breath, and i could see smoke coming out of his ears. haha. then he turned around to attack the guy that said that but when he saw me, all he could do was laugh. it was pretty funny because not everybody knows Lance and i are like brothers. that’s how we show our love for each other for the past 30 years. and that will never change…
then like always, Lance gets the best waves no matter where he’s surfing in this world. that’s the kind of respect this guys gets.
so i sit back and film the moment.
he knows i’m right there so of course he comes as close as possible.
but Lance is one of the best watermen guys so i trust him 100%. but if i were you, i wouldn’t. haha.
another local, another cool guy. i’ve had some crazy memories in Japan, and one of them was with this guy Seth McKinney. that dark night when i was surround by a gang of guys ready for a fight. Seth pulled up to help me, took off his shirt, and all the guys ran away. i’ll never forget that…
then after all the localism at Bowls, i went to Diamond Head for my peaceful time with my foil and this beautiful rainbow.
is there any other guy in this would that’s more stoked as i am? if so, i’d like to meet him. haha. living and loving moments just like this…
