it’s crazy how a day could change your life. Ueda-san was a bit nervous on Day 1, but Day 2, he was so relaxed and enjoying each and every moment. it was amazing to see that! can’t wait for Day 3!
and the paddle back outs were much more rewarding.
keeping calm and loving the ride. this is what surfing is all about.
i just sat back and watched Ueda-san having the whole spot to himself. nobody was out!
i’m on the edge of another painful eye surgery. so in the afternoons when the UV rays are the strongest, i better protect my eyes. hopefully this works.
i’m so happy when i teach people how to foil and see them loving it. it feels like catching your very first wave again. you feel young, you feel reckless, and you feel free like a bird…
then when the bird falls, i can’t stop laughing. haha.
ok, is this for real??? Did Tesla CEO Elon Musk really smoke marijuana on live TV? what was this guy thinking??? if he was my friend, i’d call him up and say “you’re a total idiot!!!” then i’d say “you should start surfing dude. you really need it!”
