i use to dream of days like today. from morning to evening, the waves and conditions where as good as it gets. look at Oshima-san’s perfect dawn patrol wave!
so glassy and so smooth surfing. it was so fun to ride along and watch.
then i see this guy flying over the ocean at Bowls! it was Micah on his foil!
my friend told me that somebody was complaining about foilers at Bowls? Micah is the first one out there and i’m sure nobody would tell him to leave. because i know he won’t.
another amazing session for Oshima-san! in by 7:30am and a full happy day ahead…
then straight back out with first time surfer Hayashi-san. i told him on the beach that 99% of people i teach forget what i taught them on the beach once they paddle out. Hayashi-san’s answer was “i’m the other 1%.” haha. then he gets up on his very first wave and surfs it perfectly.
then he caught another one. by the 3rd wave, Hayashi-san was paddling and taking off on his own.
caught some pretty nice waves all the way from the outside to the very inside. he was totally stoked!
so happy to have met another excited and happy man from Kyoto! great job Hayashi-san!
then back out for round 3 with Park-san. waves still good and smiles still great.
then went out for my 4th round with my secret surfer. i ended up surfing 4 rounds totaling over 7 hours. i am completely fried! my face is so dark that i can’t even see myself unless i show my teeth. but hey, i’m smiling all day and all night. sweet dreams at 7pm…
