for all of those who stayed home this morning, i’m sorry to say that you missed the most epic day of surf! paddling out to this beautiful wave with only one guy out felt like paddling out to some remote spot deep in Indonesia. i actually had chicken skin watching waves like this pumping one after another.
Oshima-san wanted to surf before his flight back to Japan today. the best decision as today was the best day of all the days we surfed together.
my friend Jun was out and the first thing he said was “glad you guys came out. was kind of lonely by myself.” haha. next thing he said was “go!” we took turns riding wave after wave. it was non-stop!
Oshima-san was super lucky to surf this rare moment. usually this spot is packed with locals but not this morning.
another wave for Jun, another wave for us…
so cool to see Oshima-san having fun no matter what. if you can laugh riding down a big wave like this, that means you’re calm and enjoying the moment. so cool…
more rides, more stoke…
it wasn’t the prettiest day weather wise, but it was the most amazing day wave wise. another Hurricane Oliver present for us, and only us!
this spot never barrels on high tide. but the waves were overlapping each other making for some very steep and hollow waves. i still can’t believe the luck i’ve been getting these past 2 hurricanes. so happy!!!
