Next Foil: 4’2

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driving to the beach and saw a very beautiful rainbow.

seen my friend Jun in the parking lot so gave him the photos from yesterday’s Rockpiles dream session. nobody believed how good it was until they saw this photo. haha.

then started a Foil lesson. today’s lesson was about overcoming your fear. you can run from it and it will haunt you for the rest of your life. or you face it and overcome another fears you have in life. today was about facing it!

Joshua let me take his little pink 4’2 foil board last night so i really wanted to try it.

i got up on my first wave and couldn’t believe how fast it was going!!! i felt like Kai Lenny!!! haha.

it popped up so fast and i could do really tight turns. i was surprised on how good it was flowing. gave me an idea for my next foil board because now i felt the speed and i love speed!

then took Ishikawa-san surfing. perfect waves this afternoon!

then grabbed a big Asahi. i remember i use to drink these in Japan when i first got there back in 1992. we never had these big cans in Hawaii so i was so fascinated with it. i even use to buy a couple and bring it back home. the good old memories, and the crazy hangovers…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide