good to be back home.
good to be back surfing.
good to be back teaching.
good to be back smiling.
picked up Sawayanagi-san early this morning and paddled out to the most pristine conditions Ala Moana Bowls can offer.
glassy and uncrowded.
sunny and warm.
happy and happy.
before we paddled out, i gave Sawayanagi-san a little tip about weight distribution. meaning exactly how much pressure to push on each foot at each transition. then once he practiced on a few waves, it started coming natural.
and for a guy that couldn’t do round house cutbacks and off the tops before today, i was freaking impressed. this is perfect textbook surfing.
i was riding behind enjoying the moment. this mans surfing life will never be the same. it’s amazing how adjusting your weight distribution can make you surf 10x better and 100x cooler.
stoked to surf with Troy today too. he’s always getting the good waves.
great job Sawayanagi-san! i’m so surprised on how good you were surfing today. round house cutbacks and off the lips will change your life forever.
happy pho, happy man.
itadakimasu!
surfed this afternoon for almost 4 hours and the waves were still so good. burnt so going to put aloe on my face and sleep. goodnight..
