omg, i paddled out right at sunset yesterday to foil into the night. once i jumped into the ocean, i knew it was never too late to catch that last wave of the day!
i couldn’t believe how good it was! flying so fast on the foil!
then i see a father and son who just purchased this board an hour before they jumped into the ocean to try it out. the father asked me “hey, do you have any advice for me and my son?” i told him “be careful.” then the son took off on a wave and almost killed himself. they went in and i felt bad because i gave him the wrong advise. instead of saying to be careful, i should have said “go in now! and get taught by a good foiler! you can kill yourself, or kill somebody else.”
then went back to enjoying my life.
and foiled until dark. it was so beautiful!
then today, Tony texted me and said DH at noon. so Carter and I showed up at noon and we had the time of our lives.
Tony didn’t foil for a month because he was busy riding motorcycle in the mountains. but now he’s back in the ocean and i’m sure you will see him everyday back on the foil.
got a nice clip of Carter on a super good wave. just riding a swell and loving life.
the beautiful and endless Summer continues. more hot days ahead, and more big South swells too! enjoy it…
