this morning session with Takahata-san was amazing! waves were super good as i was just watching him catch wave after wave after wave.
then i seen the best right of the day coming so i yelled “GO!” i took off behind and watched Takahata-san surf the wave like an artist! carving up and down and looking like a painting…
if you surf Bowls rights, you will know that this wave is a gem. a very rare gem we all wait and pray for… lucky guy!
and with the waves overhead, there was no stopping this man!
good job Takahata-san. i was so stoked watching you surf over 25 waves! and our hulihuli chicken lunch was so good that i forgot to take a photo. haha. thank you for the great time!
then afternoon session with the Ironman. or should i say “Ironwoman.”
finally have time to update what’s important, and get rid of what’s not important.
this is important because i set an alarm when i free dive over 80′. when it sounds, my brain tells me “better start getting your ass up to the surface boy!” haha…
