everybody asks me if surfing is dangerous. i say “yes.” everybody asks me if i get hurt surfing. i say “usually not.” yes, i had some near death experiences but nothing too bad. stitches, cuts, scratches, and hitting my head and knocking out isn’t considered that bad in my books.
do you want to know what’s dangerous? my everyday life is dangerous. i was helping my brother carry a huge heavy tv up the stairs when my thumb got pinned with the tv and the pole. the cut was pretty deep, my nail almost came off, and i was in pain for the past 10 days.
so to answer your questions, surfing is dangerous, but my everyday life is a lot more dangerous.
10 days later and the hole finally closed. now i can finally text message again. yeah!
