wow, the waves were super fun this morning! chest high and perfect. Nanami-san was much more relaxed and it showed in her surfing. long rides….
and long smiles….
Gavin did way better than yesterday too. sitting very cool and waiting for the right one.
and riding a high performance 9’1 is a huge accomplishment for this kid.
got the call this afternoon that DH was looking good. so threw the foil in the truck and had the time of my life! the waves were absolutely perfect! long double ups and 1 minute rides. i came in this evening thinking to myself “wow, i’m freaking so happy!”
