super energetic, super happy, and super young. welcome to your first surfing session in Hawaii Nao-san!
first light, first wave, and first smile. so happy!
then a huge rainbow to follow!
more smiles, and more long happy rides. this is how you’re supposed to be enjoying surfing. this is what you call “stoke!”
we only surfed for an hour and a half but Nao-san caught 15 waves. all long and all so good!
when i picked up Nao-san from her hotel, i thought she was a teenager. haha. come to find out, she’s a Doctor in Miyako!!! omg! very impressive… thank you Dr. Nao-san for the wonderful morning!
my afternoons usually go like this. my time to play hard. i just want bigger and bigger!
and i just want faster and faster! someday soon, i’ll be foiling on a huge wave and when that day comes, i’ll be fully content…
