Very High Risk Boating

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it was pretty crazy to boat 76 miles or 122 kilometers in this kind of conditions. getting there was the easy part, but coming back with the biggest waves of the year breaking on all islands was the hard part. i’ll get back to that later but i haven’t been this nervous in a very long time. lots of doubts, and i don’t like doubts…

but going with friends to Molokai is a treat. something you would give up anything to do.

drinking beers while watching the ocean, picking a couple big opihi for natures best appetizer. you can’t beat it.

i could sit here all day long just looking out to the horizon day dreaming. we were all doing that.

and seeing the super bring orange moon rising in the evening. it was like a magic show.

while everybody slept good, i went back to Mayuki and ended up not sleeping much. the big waves and tide surge were rocking the boat, and the anchor kept on coming loose. i had to swim in the pitch dark 2x by myself trying to reset the anchor in the middle of the night. how do you sleep after that? haha.

got up and watched the sunrise together. while everybody was thinking how beautiful the sunrise was, i was thinking about how the heck were we going to go home? that’s Maui right in front and Jaws was 40′ and growing. on Oahu, Waimea Bay was 20′ and growing. so in order to make it back to Oahu, we would have to cross the channel between islands with monster swells. a little scary thought…

at one point, i was thinking if we should stay another day? or try to chance something not too many have ever done before. of course, i chose to take the chance.

spiders take chances too, so why can’t we?

but omg, i ate the most amazing meals these past 2 days. thank you cousin Dino for taking care of us!

it is mandatory to have life vests on your boat. until now, i kept them in the compartment under the front. but for the trip on the way back, i actually took them out and got it ready. yes, i was just preparing for the worst. actually, everybody was nervous because we were eating our last meal on Molokai like it was going to be our last in our lives. haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide