got up at 4am, headed to the North Shore to surf in the dark. pulled up to Backdoor/Pipeline and it was smaller than i thought. umm…
head high and perfect but nothing out there that would make my adrenaline rush. and yes, i only go out early morning to the North Shore to get my adrenaline rush. nothing else…
thank goodness i had my foil in the truck! pulled up to Laniakea and had the time of my life!
the waves were so perfect and i was the only foiler out. taking off on these waves felt like taking off on 10′ sets! i was flying!!! my adrenaline rushing!
then met the coolest guy out there. Matsuda-san introduced himself to me. a long time NSA judge so he knows all the legends like Yo-chan, Bob-san, and Inaba-san. if you know those guys, you are super cool to me because i love those guys!
and if i know you, i’ll do my best to capture your special memory. Matsuda-san at his last sunrise on his Hawaiian vacation.
i was so happy driving home at 8:30 already totally satisfied. BUT, the winds were good, the tide was right, and the swell was perfect size for this secret spot i use to surf a long time ago. thought i’d go check it out.
the paddle is 4x the length compared to Bowls, lots of sharks, but always worth it. and when i get out, i see all the North Shore boys foiling! guys like Kai Garcia, Joel Parkinson, Brian Surrat, Griffin Colapinto, Kekoa Umemura, Blane Chambers, and many more!
we were all taking turns foiling in paradise. all hardcore watermen just enjoying the ride and cheering each other on like little kids. here is one of the heaviest North Shore locals you will ever meet, Kaiborg! so stoked to foil with you boys!!! now my adrenaline was pumping hard!
on the way home, wanted something sweet to make my blood pump even more.
snow puffs will do just that!
and some take out for the ride home. oh, i just bought that sleeping bag yesterday. planning a camping trip!
then i hit the freeway and the song “Rocket Man” by Elton John plays. i start singing at the top of my lungs. now my adrenaline was at 150% and the ride home was amazing. i haven’t been this happy off the ocean in a very long time. and it was still only 10:30am. haha…
I’m a Rocket Man!!!!
