wow, Laniakea was so good yesterday morning! only a couple surfers out enjoying the golden moment. there were some steep drops, easy for short, but crazy for the foil.
the thing about that foil is once you commit, you have to go. you can’t pull back because if you go over the falls with your foil, you will get hurt. so yes, taking off on a chest high wave is similar to taking off on a 10′ set. so amazing!
but once you make the drop, the rest is easy. flying like a bird and loving life.
i know that not everybody likes to surf with a foiler out, but it’s all about mutual respect. i’m a surfer too so i try to make peace before war. how can you get upset in a setting like this?
when there is a huge North/West swell, you’ll find all the boys at Pipeline. but when there is a head high North/West swell, you will find all the boys at a very sacred spot. these are men who ride mountains!
Brian Surrat is in his 60’s, but living his life like a teenager.
back in the 90’s at Backdoor, Kaiborg use to yell to me “GO!” and of course, i went because when this guys yells go, you better freaking go! then yesterday a pretty big one came and Kaiborg yelled “GO!” and yes, i went. i think i was more scared yesterday than all those 10′ Backdoor days. haha.
Blaine Chambers has been foiling a lot. i know that because he’s 10x better than the last time i foiled with him.
and if you ever need inspiration, just watch Uncle Brian foil. lots of men settle down after turning 60, but this man is only getting started.
i saw Griffin Colapinto foiling on a good one. he just started so i’m sure it felt just as good as a 10′ barrel at Pipeline. everybody was yelling and so was he. pure stoke! it was a very classic moment…
