What do I like?

355

what do i like?

i like waking up early in the morning and watching the sunrise.

i like pulling up to the beach like i did this morning and seeing the waves totally perfect. i like to foil so i foiled 2 rounds today. that is 6 rounds in the past 3 days!

i like Nagoya so passing by there in and out of Japan is a treat.

i like going to surfboard factories and watching my surfboards being created. total art.

i like to go to Molokai with family and friends to enjoy the peace and quiet. without it, i’d be stressed out.

i like to watch sunsets on totally secluded secret beaches. just like this.

i like to eat Japanese treats while i’m in Hawaii. thank you Abe-san for making that happen!

i like to take Mateus to eat ice cream. watching him from behind so he doesn’t fall off the chair.

i like to borrow his watch too. makes me feel young again.

i like reading good books and i heard this one is really good. i’m taking my time on this one because i know i won’t want it to end.

and last, i like everybody and everything in my life. that’s why i can go to sleep at night peacefully and start dreaming about tomorrow. goodnight…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide