when i went to the East side to foil, i only caught 3 waves. then i came in and watched the islands best foilers through my binoculars for an hour. just by watching, i knew i would learn a lot. foiling is so new so you have to take those opportunities to foil with the best to raise your own level.
now i’m back at my home spot trying to foil waves similar to how i surf waves. it’s the same concept except you have less room for mistakes because a mistake can send you to the hospital. so i’m trying to be reckless, but careful at the same time. just like surfing, the bottom turn dictates what comes next…
this is where you have to commit. the more you take your foil up the wave, the more risky it is to come back down. this is where you decide the risk factor…
then once you start to go up the wave, you have to turn down much earlier than you would on a shortboard. the transition shift isn’t as quick compared to a shortboard.
then you have to push the tail hard and turn down, but not too hard or the foil will pop out. this is where it feels so dam good!!!
speaking of feeling so dam good. i was feeling so dam good when i heard Seth Moniz won an award at the Surfers Poll for Breakthrough Performer of 2018.
yes, this kid was on fire in 2018. big results and big airs got him into the WCT for 2019! i remember this air because i saw it from Ala Moana Beach Park this past Summer.
Seth went up to grab his award and gave a speech. the first thing he said was “i can’t believe i’m up here, i felt like it was just last year when i was at the door escorting all you guys in here.” haha!!!! that was so funny! i was cracking up!!!! anyway, i’m proud of you Seth Moniz. you went from Doorman to a prestigious Surfers Poll Award Winner! but whether you’re a doorman or world champion, we all love you the same…
