Lucky Christmas for Everyone

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Nao-san got a freak set that came right to her for her Christmas present this morning! it was so beautiful on this 25th day of December…

this year is coming to an end. lots of things happened this year and i usually reflect during this last week of the year. gets kind of emotional at times but there is always a light at the end of the tunnel. that’s the light i always see…

this year will make a full year since i started my new hobby. i feel like i’m on top of the world. but as good as life is, shit happens. yesterday, we almost lost a local surfer friend at Bowls. watching him lie there motionless holding on to life was hard to see. it took surfers, lifeguards, firemen, and doctors working like a team to save his life. lucky, he survived to see another Christmas day. driving home from the hospital last night was very emotional. i thought about my family, i thought about my friends, and i thought about how precious life is. and i also thought how important it is to tell the people you love that you love them. so hey you guys and girls, i’m telling you right now that i love you!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide