today was my first day off in while and i stayed home all day long. it must like over 10 years since i’ve never left my house all day. the farthest i went from my house was to feed my chicken. about my foot? the constant throbbing pain is killing me! i seriously feel like i’m dying inside…
back to yesterday. Taki-san surfing perfectly on day 2 of Boot Camp. i actually had to apologize to him after for being so strict. haha. but he totally understood which was cool…
the smile after the perfect ride…
Hirano-san hasn’t surfed anywhere else besides Nakamura so i could totally understand why she was nervous. i’d be too! but after relaxing and keeping calm, the nerves went away.
welcome to a different world of surfing!
classic Diamond Head sunrise shot.
smooth and the longest rides of their lives…
thank you Hirano-san and Taki-san for the amazing days in Hawaii. have a safe flight home and tell everyone i said hello!
then it was off to a Foiling lesson with Nakahodo-san. this guy is determined and wants to feel like a bird too!
Nakahodo-san has super good balance. surfing heavy front footed is the key to foiling because you want to keep the nose down as much as possible.
then after a few waves, i told him to let off pressure of the front foot and push the back foot gently. this is how to do it!
then putting little weight back on the front and becoming level like this. good job Nakahodo-san! you are officially flying like a bird now and your life will never be the same! welcome to the foilers club!
