Vacation: Stuck in Hawaii

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thank you Masaru-san for the snacks!   good for my vacation food!

i had to get out my house today so took a drive to the ocean.  when i pulled up to Diamond Head, i regretted seeing this because i really wanted to surf!

 i was imagining myself foiling all those swells.  only dreaming for now but i’ll be back soon.

everybody asked me if i got hurt from foiling.  no, i got hurt from surfing.  i still remember paddling out to V-land that morning looking at the sharp nose on my shortboard.  i was thinking how sharp and dangerous it was.  then 15 minutes after that thought, some kook threw his board and i dodged it.  the sharp nose missed my head by inches and hit my leg.  now that i’m injured, i’m looking at the positives and negatives?  the positives are i’m not dead.  i can somewhat walk.  it could have been worst.  and now i’m on vacation.   negatives?  i don’t think negative so none there.  i was supposed to be on a trip this week to either Japan, Taiwan, or the Philippines.   but it wasn’t meant to be this time.  this happened for a reason, a reason i don’t know.  maybe my airplane would have crashed?  maybe i could have gotten hurt on a secluded island?  who knows.  all i know is i’ll be back very soon… in the meantime, i’m going to go with the flow.  no alarm clock, no responsibilities, and no work.  i’m kind of liking this lifestyle.  haha.  thank you Maki-san and Carter for keeping me from becoming insane.  haha…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide