i’ve been having so much fun surfing. just connecting with the ocean and feeling the flow. i miss it a lot…
and i’ve been having so much fun foiling. feeling like a bird gliding above the water in and out of waves. i miss it a lot…
i got hurt on January 2nd. my foot was like this 2 days after that. i didn’t realize how bad it was until i saw it in a photo. now it’s 8 days later and i still can’t walk on it. i miss surfing and foiling so much. and when i’m back in the water, i’m going to appreciate it even more than ever. but for now, more movies, more friends, and more relax time. i can’t complain…
