Save the Whales and Save my Foot

203


it wasn’t until i got a text from Hikaru-san saying “OMG, your foot is horrible! go to the Emergency room now!” well, i was off island so made sure i got the early flight out and straight to my doctor.

the first thing the doctor said was “why didn’t you come earlier? do you want to lose your foot?” i said “no, i love my foot. sorry Doctor.”

she couldn’t believe when i told her i was in and out of Kahuku Hospital in 20 minutes after i got hurt. neither could i when i think about it.

she took blood samples, and sent me immediately to get x-rays.
even the x-ray technician said “wow, what happened?”

he took 3 x-rays.   sent it to my doctor, and it came back negative.  so yeah, my foot is saved!  taking antibiotics now and should be back very soon.   thanks again for all the support because if it wasn’t for you guys, i’d still wouldn’t go to a doctor.

went to look at Diamond Head and my friend said “sorry you’re missing out.”  i thought to myself “i ain’t missing out anything.  i surfed the best waves in the world so what am i missing out?”  haha.  i think i’m getting grouchy…  haha…

but no, i’m not missing out because when i get back into the ocean, i will make up for all the missed time.  just everybody please stay out of my way!  haha…

went to check out the whale carcass out in the middle of the sea.  Maki-san with the front row view!

it felt so good to be back out in the sea.  i was thinking about jumping into the ocean but i know my doctor and concerned friends wouldn’t have liked that…

came home, ate a homemade laulau my friend Brandon made for me, exercised, watched a movie, and had a very peaceful day!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide