Inside an Indonesia Secret Village

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good morning. 6:45am and what a good sleep. i thought i was going to wake up at 2 or 3am but slept right through. feeling pretty good. looking at the waves and looks pretty small. waist/chest high at bowls with 8 guys out. no wind now but the waves don’t look that clean. best bet? diamond head. probably head high with perfect conditions. umm, might have to go get wet. have a nice day….
**i like to explore. war, terrorist, malaria, what ever. i’m so dam curious that i’ll take chances. so when we are on the boat passing little fishing villages in the middle of nowhere, i get tempted. it’s a once in a lifetime kind of thing so why not. so there we were in the middle of indo. i got up really early and was looking into a little village we anchored outside of. the only way in was to swim. the women were really nice and friendly but the main guy of the tribe climbed down the coconut tree with a knife and looked pretty pissed. he didn’t look too happy and now i know why. it was only 6am in the morning… haha…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide