gosh, i feel like a fish out of the water. i’m having fun with land activities, but i’m really missing the ocean. 
this poor fish got eaten sweet/sour style. 
and this one got eaten steamed style. want to thank my brother for giving me these 2 very expensive fish! 
and want to thank Mori-san for sending me the Taiwan surf report. omg, i’m so jealous!!!
so this morning, i load up my foil and head to the beach. i was so excited to foil again since it’s been 15 days since the last time. 
i pull up to Diamond Head and got ready. then after a couple steps down the mountain, my foot couldn’t bear the pain. so i jumped back in the truck and went to my secret spot. i had to walk backwards up and down the hill. then i get out to the lineup and nobody was out. i paddle for my first foil wave since January 1st. i try to pop up and when i put my left foot forward, it bent backwards and i thought my cut opened up again. it felt like it ripped open! i screamed so loud and couldn’t stand up. so i paddled in and called it a day. i was kind of bummed out…
then i come home and Mateus was playing at my house! i was so happy to see him. he asked me how my foot was and gave me a big loving hug. right there, all the pain went away. it’s amazing how a little love can heal all the pain…
