had an amazing time today with this cool group of surfers! uploading the photos now so will post it soon. i’m so happy to meet such nice people like this all the time!!!
i can’t believe how naive people can be. guys swimming up to the whale carcass and playing on it? and others trying to cut out the teeth? this is a total disrespect of nature. this is not only disrespectful, this is illegal in Hawaii. very sad to see things like this…
it’s been 15 days since i got my stitches and when i looked at it today, the stitches were covered by new skin forming. usually i take out stitches myself, but not this time because i knew it would be painful. 
i was screaming!!! the doctor had to dig it out and it didn’t feel too good. 
some butterfly tape so it won’t rip open when i surf or do yoga. doctor said to take it easy and everything should be ok. but it doesn’t look ok! 
want to say goodbye to my friend Marcus Biju. he died this morning at Pipeline doing what he loved to do, which is getting barreled. so sad to lose another cool Hawaiian. thank you for the years of aloha Marcus…
