Fourteen waves per minute…

180

opps, sorry for got to post this.  here it is… Ohata-san is a very nice man from Hiroshima.  so cool to finally meet him because he knows all my surfer friends from Hiroshima.  and all are so cool!  Ohata-san on the shortboard having a great time!  Ana-san is originally from the Philippines.  she is super energetic and super positive.  her first time surfing but looking like she’s done this before.  Ban-san surfed for his first time too.  look how stoked he was!   yesterday only the strong can survive.  it was totally onshore and the waves were non-stop.  i counted 14 waves per each minute.   times that by 120 minutes which we surfed and that comes out to 1,680 waves.   so it was pretty dam hard getting back out.  but we all did it over and over… Ana-san on her last wave in.  had a wonderful talk about the Philippines.  wonderful culture and wonderful people… Ban-san was smiling the whole time.  i’m pretty sure he’ll be back surfing sometime soon… Ohata-san paddled over and through about a 200 waves.  very strong and determined…then i let him try my longboard on the way in.  nice ride!   Ohata-san, Tomoe-san, Ban-san, and Ana-san, thank you for the wonderful surfing and entertaining conversation.  please enjoy the rest of your Hawaiian vacation and see you guys somewhere in this amazing world!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide