Murder Mountain

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 woke up to this beautiful photo sent by Takami-san.  the beautiful Mt. Fuji!  always making me so happy! and same morning waking up to Tokyo by Nao-san.  look at Mt. Fuji in the background!  so stoked!  thanks guys for putting a smile on my face first thing in the morning… i was hanging out in Waikiki for a couple hours right at sunset.  it was so beautiful!  and so fun watching all the people walking by.  everybody looked so happy to be in paradise… omg, the waves are perfect for the foil!   i took this photo of Ben Aipa 8 years ago.  Ben use to be my surfing coach when i was a teenager.  he taught me so many things about contest, style, respect, ocean, and waves.  he was very strict to me and maybe this is why i’m strict when teaching people too.   and i raise my hands like this too when my students don’t do what i say.  haha…Netflix came out with this documentary series called “Murder Mountain.”   it’s about a surfer from San Diego that disappeared in the mountains in California.  he went to work for a few years in the marijuana farms and never made it back out.  it was very interesting and very sad at the same time.  nobody comes ahead when it comes to drugs.  and there is no such thing as “easy money….”

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide