Last Day is Saigo no hi.

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wow, time is sure flying. i feel like i just got back from traveling
but it’s time to go again. leaving tomorrow for a trip to japan,
indonesia, japan, and back to hawaii. we’re still trying to plan out M5
and hopefully things will fall into place. i got to keep on working
hard because i don’t think dream jobs last forever. i’m amazed how long
it’s been and i’m not taking anything for granted.
this summer was the best hawaiian summer ever. the waves were just
incredible. i surfed epic big bowls, big rights, diamond head, and a
few of my secret spots. i’m surfed out, i’m as dark as i ever was, i’m
sunburned, my eyes are red, but my mind is as clear as it gets. i’m not
expecting any surf in the next few weeks but you never know what will
happen. i’ll be ready for anything.
i passed my motorcycle permit test yesterday. i was kind of nervous
because i didn’t want to let anybody down if i failed again. especially
myself. luckily i passed and if any of you are planning to take the
test, please study. not just common sense studying, study how to figure
out trick questions. yes, the test is pretty tricky. lots of people
fail it and i know why.
today will be busy for sure so better get going. after i surf all day,
i’m going to work all night. then once i board my flight tomorrow
morning, i’ll watch a movie, read a book, and fall fast asleep. japan
and indonesia, here i come!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide