Proud to be American

180

 i looked at Diamond Head 3x today and foiled early in the morning.  it was so perfect and i can finally feel my balance returning to normal… decided to go to yoga class right after because i want to be very active today.  my instructor Pablo was amazing as usual.  very hard as my cut was stretching back and forth, but it was very rewarding at the same time… i just cooked the last 2 tako from my freezer last night.  kind of sad not to have anymore so better go hunting soon… i can eat this over and over.  when the water cleans up from all this rain, i’m going tako hunting so i can reload my freezer… and hopefully i can get a monster tako like this again… i watched the beginning of the Super Bowl because i wanted to hear the National Anthem.  like always, i had chicken skin and was very proud to be an American!  drove home this evening right into the brightest rainbow.  it’s been like this everyday for a while now.  can’t complain about anything…more and more photos i’m finding on my hard drive.  this is classic Wakayama…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide