driving to the beach this morning watching the police arrest a guy. what a start to a day in Paradise…
Ueda-san slept well last night and was in full power mode this morning. surfing so good!
Mayumi-san super smooth and having the longest rides of the day.
this is absolutely perfect surfing. good style and good smile.
and when you’re smiling, you’re relaxing. just like this…
i just love riding on the side yelling like a sargent to a solider. haha… good job Ueda-san and Mayumi-san. see you guys again tomorrow for more boot camp!
a wise man once told me “Kirby, you can’t take your money to your grave. so enjoy your life and buy what ever you want.” i took his advise today and bought a very expensive foil.
then i went out to Diamond Head and had the time of my life. i’m about 90% back to normal, and 100% happier than ever. life is good again…
