well, it’s time to leave. as soon as i board the airplane, i’m watching a movie and taking a long nap. this past 5 weeks have flew by. got to get a few of the hundreds of photos off my computer. see you all in japan!
seth is 14 years old and experienced something that not too many surfers in hawaii experienced. the biggest south swell ever! not only was it big, it was clean, barreling, and super fun. here is seth getting barreled at the big bowl. photo by his mom.
i still get emails and phone calls asking where i surfed on typhoon 9. my lips are sealed. and if you ever want to challenge yourself, try getting past this shore break first. it wasn’t easy at all.
i learned this drinking game called “I sei no” about 15 years ago in japan and i’ve spread it around the world. it’s a game for everyone! this is okinawa 2 years ago.
when will everything get back to normal? still no answers.
i want to thank Miki-chan and Yuji-san for a super fun day! we surfed for over 4 hours, did a nice drive to the east side, and ate the biggest piece of meat. i’m still full. thank you for all the smiles and laughs! enjoy the rest of your stay in hawaii and keep on surfing!
